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Chris Bonington describes John Porter as 'the only true amateur climbing at the highest levels.' Before mountaineering became a commercial activity, John was part of a generation that pushed the boundaries of alpinism on the world's highest peaks. American born, he came to study at Leeds University. After graduation he worked in many different locations, and climbed in even more, making pioneering ascents of the N. Face of Bandaka with Voytek Kurtyka and Alex MacIntyre in 1977. The following year with Krystof Zurek they climbed the S. Buttress of Changabang. Neither route has been repeated. Many expeditions and new climbs followed over the next three decades, but he also worked full time as a consultant in economic development and set up mountain culture projects such as the Kendal Mountain Festival 1980 and the National Mountaineering Exhibition and Mountain Heritage Trust in 2000. His biography of Alex MacIntyre is available in 7 languages. It was Grand Prize winner at Banff in 2014, and is the only book by a mountaineer ever short listed for the Cross Sports Writer Book of the year. Still active, John completed a term as President of the Alpine Club in 2019.
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