Show Notes:

Related Resources:

• AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Page
• SPI handbook (2024)
• EP 20 – Everything SPI 01 – Professionalism and Risk Management
• EP 29 – Everything SPI 02 – Site Selection & Group Management
• EP 34 – Everything SPI 03 – Current SPI Eval System with Andrew Megas-Russell

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday! This is your host, Ting Ting, from Las Vegas, and welcome back to another episode of the Everything SPI series. Today, Spencer and I will be discussing the important topic of Teaching and Curriculum Design. Both Spencer and I are thrilled about this episode.

We’ll start by discussing the types of courses that can be taught utilizing single pitch terrain. Then, we’ll dive into our guiding principles, RACK and FIRE. We’ll use a case study to explore the “F” in FIRE, which stands for Formulate, in detail.

Both Spencer and I are AMGA certified Rock Guides and SPI Providers. We co-taught an SPI course back in October 2023 and found that our teaching style was quite compatible and complimentary. Therefore, we decided to do this podcast series, Everything SPI, to create supplemental material related to the SPI programs.

Spencer and I both have deep roots in climbing education. We have over 20 years of field instructing experience and are confident that we can provide valuable insights. We also recognize that the field of climbing instruction is dynamic and we can’t possibly know everything. So, if you have any questions, feedback, please reach out to help us improve. Now please enjoy!

Things We Talked about:

• What can we teach utilizing single pitch terrain?
• Guiding principles – RACK (Risk management, Ask questions, Collect information, Keep it simple)
• FIRE Overview (Formulate, Implement, Reflect, Enhance)
  • Formulate:
    • Who are the students? Define ratio, prerequisites. (Potential trouble here, students’ level are quite different)
    • Course goal, objectives, outcome. Set priority.
    • Structure/visualize the day and write/prepare lesson plans
      1. Progression and regression (make sure we have the flexibility to scale up and scale down)
      2. Divide and conquer, break the whole course into different sessions and classes. Utilize overlaps, so people practice new skills based on the foundations of learned skills. Many times less is more
      3. Hands on practice and mini evaluations – Give students ample opportunities to get hands on. Ask questions to encourage reflection and self-evaluation. Also build in mini evaluation (this will help instructors to know where students are at and when to push to the next phase).
      4. Time management (check back with priority list)
    • Pack/gather gear
      • Client harnesses/helmets/shoes
      • Program ropes (how many??), etc.

Show Notes:

Paloma’s Links:

• Paloma Farkas (website)
• Paloma’s instagram

Episode Intro:

Dear guests of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Our guest today is Paloma Farkas from Bishop California. Paloma is only 25 years old, but she already has 6 years of guiding under her belt. Right after she graduated from high school, her parents gifted her a NOLS backcountry rock course at the Wind River Range. Paloma then listened to the callings of mountains and followed her heart towards alpine rock climbing and started her guiding career.

Paloma grew up in Seattle, Washington where she discovered her passion for the mountains through family backpacking and climbing trips in the Cascades. In 2017 she traveled to South America and fell in love with the granite towers of Patagonia. Since then she has split her time between Patagonia, Chile and the US. Paloma spends as much time as possible climbing and some of her favorite areas are Patagonia, the Peruvian Andes, the Cascades, Indian Creek, the Wind River Range, and the High Sierras. Her favorite type of climbing is big wall alpine climbing, but Paloma also enjoys single pitch trad and sport climbing, bouldering and ice climbing. When Paloma isn’t pursuing her own climbing goals, she finds fulfillment in sharing her passion with others and teaching the skills necessary to be self-sufficient in the mountains. She is currently an AMGA Rock Guide, Apprentice Alpine Guide, Wilderness First Responder, AIARE Avalanche Pro 1, and Leave No Trace Trainer.

I admire Paloma’s attitude of going for it when she knows what she wants. She works hard and remains optimistic. We had so much laughter during our conversation and I know you’ll laugh with us too when you listen to this episode.

Things We Talked about:

• Cross Country Running was already there
• Family’s influence – climbing wall at home, backpacking and climbing trips in the Cascades
• NOLS backcountry rock course changed Paloma’s life path
• The year of 2016
• Wanting to head out of the country, and wanting to go to the mountains
• A powerful conversation between father and daughter
• Why Patagonia?
• From dirtbagging to hiking guide to weekend warrior
• 2020 now what?
• After AMGA Rock Guide Course, Paloma started technical rock guiding in Bishop
• Comparing the work environment between the US and Chile from a female guide’s perspective
• Paloma’s vision and business ideas – train climbers in the Sierras and bring them to Patagonia
• Does Bishop has enough work year round?
• How to make Bishop guiding career sustainable?
• Favorite type of guiding?
• The so-called “Gap Courses”

Show Notes:

Taylor’s Links:

• Tangent Climbing website: tangentclimbing.com
• Taylor’s IG: @tay_frag
• Tangent’s IG: @tangent_climbing

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday and welcome back to another great episode. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas and our guest today is Taylor Fragomeni.

Taylor started climbing in the Adirondack Mountains of Upstate NY in May of 2011 and moved to SW Montana shortly after. She has 12 years of competitive and commercial routesetting experience and a decade of instructing/guiding/coaching experience. Taylor often works with coaches, routesetters, and guides to streamline their training plans to balance the physical demands of work and play that allows sustainable long term progress. Her coaching style is highly collaborative. She sees herself as a supporter and educator who empowers each individual to become an expert on their own athletic journey.

Taylor was my movement coach and helped me to write my own training plans. It is always fun to chat about climbing with Taylor. In this episode we focused on principles of how to train for your climbing goal while you have a physical demanding job. We also talked about how to help intermediate climbers get better with their movements and keep climbing fun. People who are interested in Taylor’s service can visit her business website: Tangent Climbing or get in contact with her via social media. Links to those resources are in the “Taylor’s Links” in Show Notes.

Things We Talked about:

• Help people to train when they have physically demanding jobs
• Being flexible and how
• Prioritize rest and make high quality sessions
• Listen to your brain but sometimes not listen to your brain
• At the end of the day, it’s a giant experiment on yourself
• Find the minimum effective dose
• It’s okay to have fluctuations
• Patience, patience, patience
• Goal setting
• Load management
• Grade of a route and its RIC scale
• Take notes and keep a journal
• Make small changes to build solid foundation
• Movement coaching
• How to transfer indoor gain to outdoor
• What does Taylor do?